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Alexandre Bally

Kitchen

Recipes and techniques from a lifelong passion for cooking.

Recipes

Techniques

Techniques

Master the building blocks behind great dishes.

beginner·4 min read

Acidulating Cut Fruit

Cutting apple straight into lime or lemon juice so it stays pale and crisp for hours, and moves a last-minute job to the afternoon

Cut apple browns within about fifteen minutes because polyphenol oxidase, released by the knife, meets oxygen. Dropping each piece into citrus juice as it is cut lowers the surface pH far enough to slow the enzyme to a crawl. In a chaat or any dressed fruit dish the acid is the dressing anyway, so the technique costs nothing and buys four to six hours.

fruitknife workmake-ahead
beginner·4 min read

Blooming Saffron

Crushing the threads and steeping them in warm, never boiling, liquid for a full fifteen minutes, so the aroma comes out and not just the colour

Saffron's colour, bitterness and aroma are locked inside a dried thread. Crushed and steeped covered in liquid at about 60°C for fifteen minutes, it gives up roughly twice what whole threads do, and keeps the volatile safranal that boiling drives off. Colour arrives in seconds; aroma needs the full time.

saffronspiceinfusion
Intermediate·4 min read

Butter Basting (Arroser)

Thirty to sixty seconds of foaming garlic-herb butter spooned over the meat at the very end, to harden the crust and give a lean cut the fat it lacks

The finishing move where whole butter, garlic and a woody herb go into the hot pan, the pan is tilted, and the foaming butter is spooned over the meat continuously for under a minute. It tightens and lacquers the crust, carries browned-butter and aromatic flavour onto the surface, and supplies the richness a lean cut cannot. Distinct from making beurre noisette as a sauce: here the browning butter is a tool applied to the meat.

butterfinishingcrust