Mushroom Ravioli with Brown Butter and Sage

Fresh pasta dough (70/30 blend)

• 210 g Weissmehl (tipo 00), Swiss type 400/405, or Italian tipo 00
• 90 g semola rimacinata, re-milled durum wheat semolina
• 2 whole eggs
• 3 egg yolks, extra yolks for richness and tenderness
• 6 g fine salt, ~1 tsp
• 8 ml olive oil, for suppleness

Mushroom filling

• 350 g fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps roughly chopped
• 30 g dried porcini
• 200 ml hot water, ~80°C, for rehydrating porcini
• 1 tbsp butter, added after dry-frying
• 1 shallot, small, very finely chopped
• 4 garlic, minced
• 40 ml dry white wine, for deglazing
• 60 g mascarpone
• 50 g Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
• 1.5 tsp fresh thyme leaves
• 0.3 tsp nutmeg, freshly grated, scant measure
• 0.5 lemon zest, finely grated zest of half a lemon
• to taste salt and black pepper

Brown butter sauce

• 95 g unsalted butter, cut into small equal cubes; high-fat cultured if available
• 14 fresh sage leaves, 12-15 whole leaves
• 2 tbsp porcini soaking liquid, strained through paper towel
• 28 ml fresh lemon juice, ~3/4 lemon
• 4 tbsp pasta cooking water, starchy, reserved before draining
• 40 g Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated, for finishing

Rehydrate the porcini

1. 1

   Place the dried porcini in a bowl and cover with 200 ml hot water (~80°C, not boiling). Leave for 20-30 minutes until soft and pliable. Lift mushrooms out with a fork, squeeze gently over the bowl, and chop roughly. Strain the soaking liquid through a fine sieve lined with paper towel into a clean container. Reserve both separately.

   25m80°C

   Do not use boiling water — it extracts bitter compounds and washes out delicate aromatics. Always strain through paper towel to remove grit.

Make the pasta dough

1. 2

   Make a well with the Weissmehl and semola rimacinata on a clean work surface. Add the whole eggs, extra yolks, salt, and olive oil to the centre. Beat with a fork, gradually pulling flour from the inner walls until too thick for the fork. Bring together with a bench scraper, then knead by hand for 8-10 minutes until smooth, satiny, and slightly tacky.

   10m

   Fresh Egg Pasta

   Tip: With the semola blend, err toward 10 minutes of kneading — the coarser particles need more time to hydrate. A stand mixer with dough hook makes this easier at this quantity.

2. 3

   Wrap tightly in cling film with no air pockets. Rest at room temperature for 1 hour minimum.

   1h

   Do not shortcut the rest. The semola granules need the full hour to hydrate. Under-rested dough springs back when rolled and tears when shaped.

Cook the filling (dry-fry method)

1. 4

   Dry-fry the shiitake in two batches (~175 g each): heat a wide pan over medium-high heat with no fat. Add the first batch and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2-3 minutes until the released moisture evaporates and edges start to colour. Transfer to a bowl and repeat with the second batch.

   6m

   No more than ~200 g per batch — overcrowding drops pan temperature and steams instead of browns. You want the pan dry and edges browning.

   Mushroom Duxelles
2. 5

   Return all shiitake to the pan and add 1 tbsp butter. Cook for another 2 minutes until well browned. Reduce heat to medium, add the shallot and garlic, cook 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Add the chopped rehydrated porcini and stir through.

   4m
3. 6

   Deglaze with the white wine. Scrape up any fond from the pan. Cook until the wine has completely evaporated — you should be able to drag a spoon through the mixture and the pan stays clean for 2-3 seconds.

   2m

   The wine must be fully evaporated. Any residual liquid will make the filling wet and hard to seal.

4. 7

   Season with salt, pepper, thyme, and nutmeg. Taste — it should be assertively seasoned as the pasta will dilute it. Transfer to a bowl and cool to room temperature.

   15m

   Tip: The filling must be fully cool before combining with mascarpone, or it will melt and become greasy.

5. 8

   Fold the mascarpone, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and lemon zest into the cooled mushroom mixture. Mix until just combined — don't overwork. The filling should be textured and rustic, with distinct pieces of shiitake and porcini visible. Taste and adjust seasoning. It should hold its shape when scooped.

   3m

   If the filling is wet or runny, the ravioli will not seal properly and will burst during cooking.

Form the ravioli

1. 9

   Divide the rested dough into 4-6 portions. Working one at a time (keep the rest wrapped), flatten with your palm and pass through the pasta machine at the widest setting. Fold in thirds, rotate 90°, and pass through again. Repeat this laminating step 3-4 times, then progressively thin to the second-thinnest setting — you should see the shadow of your hand through the sheet.

   15mpasta machine

   If you can't see the outline of the filling through the top sheet, go thinner. Thick wrappers are the most common cause of disappointing homemade ravioli.

   Fresh Egg Pasta
2. 10

   Lay one sheet flat. Place rounded teaspoons of filling at ~7 cm intervals. Brush the thinnest film of water around each mound. Lay a second sheet on top. Starting from each mound, press outward with the sides of your hands to push all air out, then seal edges firmly. Cut into squares or rounds with a 1 cm sealed border. Press edges with fork tines.

   15m

   Trapped air expands in boiling water and bursts the ravioli. Always seal from the filling outward, pressing firmly to expel all air.

   Tip: Place finished ravioli on a well-floured tray in a single layer. Do not stack. Yields 24-30 ravioli.

Cook the ravioli and make the sauce

1. 11

   Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil (10 g salt per litre — it should taste like the sea). Cook the ravioli for 2-3 minutes until they float and the pasta is tender with no raw-flour taste at the seal edges. Reserve a cup of pasta water before draining.

   3mboiling
2. 12

   While the ravioli cook, place the butter cubes in a light-coloured stainless steel pan over medium heat. Let it melt, then swirl constantly once it begins to foam. Watch the colour — you want deep golden amber and a distinct nutty aroma (4-5 minutes).

   5mmedium (140-155°C for the butter solids)light-coloured stainless steel pan

   Never use non-stick or dark pans — you can't judge colour. Remove from heat when slightly lighter than target; carryover heat will finish the job. The transition from noisette to noir takes 15-20 seconds.

   Beurre Noisette (Brown Butter)
3. 13

   As soon as the butter reaches noisette stage, add the sage leaves. Let them sizzle and crisp for 30-45 seconds until translucent and shatteringly crisp.

   1m
4. 14

   Add the strained porcini soaking liquid (it will splutter — stand back). Let it bubble for a few seconds, then squeeze in the lemon juice and add the pasta water. Swirl to combine — the sauce should look glossy and emulsified, not greasy.

   1m

   Tip: The porcini liquid adds concentrated umami depth. The lemon juice is the single most impactful addition — acid cuts through the fat and lifts the entire dish. The pasta water emulsifies the butter into a clinging sauce.

5. 15

   Add the drained ravioli to the pan. Toss gently to coat. Serve immediately, topped with the freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

   1m